Category: Getting started

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Getting started Judging

Judging – when and where to start

Judging – when and where to start
I want to try and explain how you start judging after you have decided that is the next step you want to take in your hobby.

Firstly, a general rule I have learnt from seminars and have agreed with based on my own experience is to have at least been showing for 5 years. This way you will have ring/show experience as an exhibitor and maybe done some stewarding along side an experienced steward.

Next is the seminars. None are required before you start judging, although I would recommend to anyone that they try to complete them before judging. There are three Kennel Club seminars and then Breed Clubs run breed specific seminars.
The Kennel Club Rules and Regulations
The Kennel Club Conformation and Movement
The Kennel Club Hands on Assessment
Breed specific seminar (Run by the breed clubs, go on one for your breed of interest)

Once you have completed these, you will have (hopefully) have learn’t all the general basics/theories of judging.

For Young Kennel Club (YKC) members age 16-25 I can personally recommend the YKC Judging Workshops. I attended the first one and it was fantastic, I can’t recommend them enough.

Another good start for judging is to judge either Companion shows and/or Matches. Starting at lower levels gives you the chance to be in the ring and make decisions where the atmosphere is more relaxed.

Please note; one thing that really gets to a lot of show Secretary’s is judges who push themselves by asking for/begging for appointments. If you have done the seminars and are polite to people, you will soon find the judging appointments flying in. There is never an excuse to ask for them (In my opinion).

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Getting started

Teaching your dog to stand – the basics

Teaching your dog to stand – the basics

Click the link above to view this video. It is great for those who want to know how to get their dog to stand. This shows how you would go from the very start, just teaching the dog to stand and stand still.

Don’t forget to check out previous Blogs
Standing your Dog Part 1 
Standing you Dog Part 2

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Getting started

Sportsmanship

Sportsmanship
Dog showing is a competitive hobby, you will enter them so you can compete and try to win and to get the judges opinion on your dog(s). For some, their sights will be best of breed and group wins, for others it might just be to get a place in a class, or the dog to behave and have a good experience. However, whichever level you are aiming for, this hobby should be enjoyable for all.

If you can’t take being beaten in a dog show, give up. Watch the bad losers at shows, they are easy to spot. They pout, mumble obscenities, storm out of the ring and more often than not, pack up and go home (and I’ve even seen RCC cards thrown in the nearest bin, at the time I would have loved to be the one winning a RCC!). You will never see them offer a congratulations to the winners or speak well of another’s win. Please don’t emulate this type of person. Accept your wins and losses graciously, even when you might not agree. The judges decision is final and that is KC rules that we all sign to on our entry forms.

Many people treat a dog show as a social outing as well as a competition. If you can do this you will enjoy showing much more. Many friendships have started and lasted though showing.

Enjoy your showing, win or loose. You always take the best dog home……your dog!

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Getting started Handling training Show dog training

Standing you dog – part 2

Standing you dog – part 2
When standing your dog they can either be stacked or free stood. Most breeds will have a certain way of standing them, although some breeds it is acceptable to either stack and top and tail, or free stand them. Below I will explain about free standing your dog. If you have a stacked dog, please refer to Standing your dog – part 1 blog post.

Free stood dogs
Free stood dogs are those who are stood with little or no touching and the handler normally stands in front of the dog.

It can be said that a free-stood dog is more difficult to show although I find a free stood dog is harder to train. Once trained a free stood dog can be a dream to show.

It does require a certain amount of understanding between dog and handler to get the perfect stance but with training and patience it does happen.

If required then you can position your dog’s feet by hand, then adopt a position in front of them. Some breeds though are traditionally stood with no intervention from the handler.

No matter how you stand your dog though, it is important that you keep their attention on you and on the job in hand.

If your dog is a fidget, move them back then walk him forward into the stand or take you dog round in a circle. Personally I prefer to teach my dogs ‘backwards’ and ‘forwards’.

To keep your dogs attention there are many ways to try and each dog will be different. Winning Paws can help you work out the best way to stand your dog and keep their attention so they stay still.

A free stood bitch who requires no touching. She will happily stand still watching her handler.
This is a free stood puppy who was being baited to help keep her still and to bring her legs into position. (This was her second show in the UK and only met me as many times, so bribery was needed!)
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Getting started Handling training Show dog training

Standing you dog – part I

Standing you dog – part I
You may have heard the terms stacked dogs and free stood dogs. Over the next couple of blogs I will explain each of these terms and how best to go about standing your dogs in either of these ways.

Stacked dogs
When you stack a dog you place the feet into position and then hold the head and the tail (if applicable to your breed). It’s important to consider many things when you stack your dog to make sure you present your dog to its best advantage.

Present your dog with outstretched arms and stand/crouch back from him. Keep your own posture too, in particular keep your back upright.

Do not lean over you dog.  This will spoil the overall picture and may also affect the dog.

Always keep the dog straight from nose to tail to avoid ‘the banana dog’.

Many people find it easiest to start at the front and work back.

When stacking your dog, the order to go though could be;

  1. Position head and check for clean eyes and ear position.
  2. Now while holding the head in one hand position front legs as needed
  3. Stroke the dog as you move towards the back legs and place them in the required position for your breed and dog.
  4. Finally have a last check that nothing has moved and check that the dog is in a straight line, (Not impersonating a Banana), place the lead in the correct position
  5. If necessary hold the tail out and present with outstretched arms.

With practice a good handler and a trained dog will be able to get the stack and present in under 10 seconds and it can be useful to practise doing this.

If your dog moves a leg, calmly place it back into position giving another ‘stand’ command. If they move completely, move them off the spot and start the sequence again. Getting flustered will ultimately affect the dog further.  Likewise, telling the dog off might confuse him. He might think you are telling him off for standing there.  A quiet ‘No’, or ‘woops’ followed by a repeat of the sequence should suffice.

Some judges will ask you to freestand your dog on completion of the pattern work. With this in mind you should practice free-standing your traditionally stacked dog too.

Stacked dog, head a tail held out. Handller arms stretched out. The dog is focus of this overall picture
Here the handler has stacked the dog and is only holding the head with the lead. The dog is holding his tail in the correct position himself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this photo, the handler is leaning over the dog. The overall picture doesn't look as good as the other two.

 

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Getting started

Back to basics

Back to basics
The basic points of showing your dog

You are there to show YOUR DOG. To emphasise the good points and minimise any faults.
You want the judge’s thoughts on YOUR DOG.
You want to leave the judge with a lasting impression of YOUR DOG.
You want to persuade the Judge to put YOUR DOG first.
GOOD HANDLING will help achieve all of the above.

“A good handler can make a poor dog look good, whereas a poor handler can make an excellent dog look poor.”

Guidelines for showing
1) Treat your dog with respect

There is nothing worse than seeing someone mis-treat a dog at a show, or drag them round the ring, or force them to something they don’t want to. Make each and every show fun for your dog and remember, you want them to enjoy showing!

2) Always be polite to the officials and other exhibitors
A polite thank-you to the judge, and a well done to other exhibitors costs nothing.  Even if they are your sworn enemy, you being polite to them will only get them wondering. Also think about all the people who are watching around the ring.

Also, remember that dog shows are run by a committee who give up their time to provide a show for you. Accept human errors graciously and forgive when something doesn’t go to plan on the day.

3) Dress appropriately for the job in hand and to compliment your dog. 
See more details under What To Wear to a Dog Show or Dress Code

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Getting started

The importance of Ringcraft classes

The importance of Ringcraft classes
Most people find it easier to learn in one to one or small group situations and many trainers find those who have one to one lessons will learn much quicker. This happens on all walks of life from school education to dog training!

However, Ringcraft classes still are important to you and your dog’s training.

The difference is in one to one sessions you and your dog get individual attention, having time to listen and talk to you and work though many ideas for an hour (or maybe more). At Ringcraft you can be sharing a two-three hour session with 20-30 other people and dogs, without the time and individual attention that you may need.

But why are Ringcraft lessons so important?
It’s quite simple, they are regular (weekly) and cheap enough to attended regularly (price from £1-£4). They are great for socialisation with other dogs of all types and sizes and you can get a few different people to go over your dog and get advice from. They are also great for puppies where the socialisation is so important and also ideal for experienced handlers who just need to practice somewhere different with their latest pup.

Ringcraft is also a great social evening for you, where you will meet other local people with the same interest (dogs!). You will find these same familiar, friendly faces at your local shows.

Ringcraft classes can offer so much and are different to one to one session. I have been a trainer alongside my parents at Stevenage Ringcraft for many years now which was set up by my Grandparents. We are all so proud of any of our Ringcraft ‘babies’ who do well at shows, or other disciplines and we know many other Ringcraft trainers who feel the same way.

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Getting started

What are your options when you don’t have pockets?

What are your options when you don’t have pockets?
You have found the near perfect outfit, but the one issue is the pockets or there lack of. There are many options that you can go with.

My personal favourite is a small leather pouch that has 1-3 pockets depending on size and comes in black, brown or beige. They are on a piece of string so you can use them as a shoulder bag, or in my preference, round the waist. They are called Nappa bags and can be purchased from most Championship shows.

Bumbags are common and come in  a variety of materials, shapes and sizes. Have a look around websites and shows to find one that suits you.


The treat bag can clip onto your belt and can be left open or shut tight by a pull string. Personally I find this more  ideal for training than in the ring as they flap around when you run.

My favourite training treat bag is the Karen Pryor Treat bag, It has a snap shut mechnisem which means you can open or close it with one hand, and it will stay closed or open. Other manufacturers have also now copied this design and all very similar. They have a front pocket, ideal of keeping a small toy, target stick and clicker too!

There are also other ideal places to keep different items. Below are a few examples.

  • Place your dog’s comb in your hair
  • Toys in bras (done more often than you might think!)
  • Brushes in waist bands
  • Treats in armbands
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Getting started

The Boots are Made for Walking

What footwear is best in the ring?
Many people ask the question, what footwear they should wear in the ring.

It depends what you find comfortable and what goes best with your outfit. My main two types are worlds apart. Either ballet pumps. Comfy, look OK with suits and come in so many colours there is a pair for each suit. My other showing favourites are my Dubarry boots due to their extreme comfort, warmth, support and grip, plus I just love them and live in them anyway!

When your next at a show, have a look around to see what people are wearing. You will see a variety of different shoe and boot styles.

Think about something that is comfortable to you. Find a shoe that fits well and doesn’t slip off as you move your dog round the ring and that has good grip, you don’t want to be slipping. If you have a small dog and always wear heels, then find a comfy, non-slip pair, but consider what you would wear if you were showing on soft grounds.

Also get used to the idea of wearing wellies/waterproof boots. I have had, on a number of occasion’s worn wellies in the ring along with a majority of exhibitors due to the wet British summer and outdoor shows.

I do believe, gone are the days when you have to wear something unfashionable on your feet in the ring. You will find something that’s fashionable and practical if you look around, try them on and run up and down in the shop!

For men, as always there is less choice but try to avoid trainers. A smart pair of shoes will look good and will go with suit/trousers or help smarten up a pair of jeans. (Sorry men, I’m not up on the male fashion, maybe someone could comment on this blog to advise further!)

Happy shopping and remember, if you’re not moving properly, your dog is unlikely to either. So your shoes could be very important to your dog’s performance.

simple, comfy, black shoes
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Getting started

What to wear to a dog show

What should you wear to a show?
This is something that often comes up in discussions, what should you be wearing in the ring, what colours are best etc.
So, here’s a list of guidelines to think about when choosing your showing outfit;
1)      Comfort – You will spend a lot of time standing up so comfortable shoes and clothes that YOU feel comfortable in are a must.
2)      Suitability for the weather – Good old British weather will never let us down and will give us a variety of weather, possibly in one day! So make sure you have something suitable for the hot, cold or wet!
3)      Colour – you want the colour to compliment your dog. A black dog will get lost in black clothes. So choose something that makes your dog stand out from you.
4)      Where to put the bait/toy/bags – Think about does your outfit have pockets or do you need a bait bag?
But what is acceptable and what isn’t?
Today I was at a show in freezing conditions. The show is half inside for small dogs and half outside for the big dogs. Knowing the temperatures and show I opted for many layers including thermal leggings and tops, nice thick 3 in 1 coat and my lovely thermal boots, designed for use in ice and snow! Was a smart today? No! But it followed my guidelines above!
Generally Champ shows are seen as smarter than open shows, and of course Crufts is the occasion many people will buy a new outfit for.
So, for smartness a suit, one that compliments your dog in colour and is comfortable to move your dog in. A smart pair of jeans with a jacket can look just as good and many people will feel more comfortable in this then they might a full suit. Others might prefer a pair of trousers with a smart blouse/shirt. This is where comfort really is important, not just how it feels, but how you feel in your outfit.
Another idea that many people go by when in the ring is wearing something that stands out from the other exhibits. Something the judge may remember to go “I really liked the dog whose handler had a bright pink jacket on.” However, these days you see lots of bright colour jackets/suits around the ring. The fashion is now turning to Swarovski Crystal to help handlers ‘sparkle’ in the ring.
Remember, you spend plenty of time getting your dog ready, spend a bit of time on yourself too!
So here’s me on a cold day, dressed for the cold weather;
So here’s me on a cold day, dressed for the cold weather
And here I am smart as can be (It was Giles’ first champ show)
And here I am smart as can be (It was Giles’ first champ show)
I will finish this blog with a list of what not to wear;
1)      High heels
2)      Low cut tops (think about what will happen if you bend over!)
3)      Very short skirts (men too!)
4)      Dangly jewellery
5)      Anything see though

Thank you to Ray McDonald Photography for use of the photo’s