Tag: dog

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Getting started

Preparing to show – by Geraldine Hatch

Geraldine Hatch is new to showing and has kindly written about her advise for starting to show. I would like to thank her for writing about her experience of preparing to show your dog – from a newbies perspective.

Preparing to show – by Geraldine Hatch
When I got Frankie, my Eurasier, I promised the breeder I would show her. As well as being new to this breed I am quite new to showing, so have been on a huge learning curve the past 6 months.

I wanted to write this article for Winning Paws to share my experiences and help others who are new to showing. So, here are tips from me, from what I have learnt on this journey:-

Attend a ringcraft
This is a great place to socialise you dog, learn how to present your dog and yourself in the show ring and make lots of friends. I also found it a really useful place to ask questions about how to find shows and which classes to enter.

Get your entry in on time!
I didn’t realise before I started showing that the entries have to submitted so far in advance. There are a few different websites who do show entries. These can be quite confusing with all the different classes, so ask for help if you are not sure.

Check the order of judging
This is a great tip. Using whichever website you used to do your entry, you can check the order of judging and get an idea of what time you will be on. It will tell you which ring you are in, and how many breeds are in before you.

Check your journey in advance
I have found that a lot of show venues do not come up on my navigation device. Some are on farm grounds which may not have a postcode. My advice would be familiarising yourself with the route the night before and making sure it works.

Aim to arrive at the show early, this will make parking easier and also help you secure a place by your ring – lots are venues have limited space. Arriving early will also settle you and the dog, give you time to find and use the toilets and have a practice!

Grooming your dog
If you haven’t had the breed before, find out from your breeder the optimum time for doing your show preparation. I started off bathing the day before, but found this left my dog with a coat which was too soft and fluffy and not right the texture so I now do it 3 days before my which works much better.

What to wear
This really worried me. Luckily I was able to ask at ringcraft, but I have also lived and learned. Lots of people wear suits at champ shows. Open shows can be more casual while still looking smart and I normally wear trousers and a shirt or blazer. I would definitely suggest making sure you have comfortable shoes which you can easily move your dog in. I remember buying some shoes in the perfect shade of purple to match my suit – only to find they slipped off when I tried to trot!. I would also recommend wearing layers, shoes venues can be extremes of temperature, and you can never really tell until you get there. It is a good idea to look at what type of venue you are going to.

I once wore ballet style flats (it was the summer!) to an equestrian centre and spent the day with feet full of sand and wood chippings!

Find a companion
Dog shows can make for long days and boring car journeys. If you can find a friend to share the experience (and travel costs!) with it will be much more fun.

It is easy to make friends at ringcraft and find somebody who shows in the same group as you.

Have fun!
There was a long wait until my first show – Windsor champ show – when Frankie was 6 months and a few days old. After finding my bench and ring and doing a bit of practice (these can be other posts altogether!) we were on! All the build up and nerves and our time in the spotlight was over in a couple of minutes. It was so worth it though as we came away with a Crufts qualification as well as being hooked and hasn’t looked back since.

My biggest tip would be to enjoy it.

Caromarda Lets Dance For Albionspitz
Caromarda Lets Dance For Albionspitz

 

Categories
Show dog training

A round of applause

A round of applause
A group of people clapping (and cheering) can be off putting for dogs, especially while they are in the ring and you are asking your dog to stand still.

It is important to get your dog used to cheering, clapping etc that may go on ringside. Normally you can predict the huge cheers for your own ring (when the class is being placed or when a ticket is being handed out). However, you can’t predict for other rings around yours, and it could happen before your judge has made their decision, while your dog is bring gone over, or while your dog is moving.

If you attend ringcraft, ask them to make an applause, and regulary clap and cheer around your dog.

Desensitising your dog to this sound may help you in the ring one day!

Categories
Getting started Show dog training

Where can I train?

Where can I train?

This is a question with a simple, one worded answer…everywhere!

Training can be done anywhere and everywhere. Training must be kept fun, and part of this is keeping your training short, sweet and spontaneous.

Use you spare seconds in a day to do training and including a variety of rewards. Asking for a stand before letting your dog off the lead for a run, or going into a trot on a roadwalk incorporate training in time you are already spending with your dog. Also, asking for a free stand before you chuck the ball (again!) are great ways to incorporate training into your daily walks.

Getting a few seconds of training in during advert breaks of TV is another ideal time. Get in a few stands and lots of praise. Always end with treats or a game for your dog, and most of all, have fun.

 

Categories
Show dog training

Looking at your dog when moving – running in a straight line!

When showing your dog in either breed classes and handling, two things you need to do at the same time are run in a straight line and watch the dog!

Some handlers are obsessed with looking at their dog the whole time, that they can’t run in a straight line and sometimes miss the ringtape!

Other handlers only look where they are going and do not check the dog and fail to see if their dog is or isn’t moving correctly.

The balance is to watch where you are running, with just a couple of glances to your dog. Try to keep it at a maximum of three glances per straight line!

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Uncategorized

Top Tip #40

Top Tip #40
Remember to always listen to the judge and what they request in handling or breed classes.

Categories
Getting started

Unsporting exhibitors

Unsporting exhibitors
Unfortunately, in dog showing, there are a few people who feel the only way to win is to be unsporting towards their fellow exhibitors. However, if you are unlucky enough to come up against one of these people it’s good to know what they are likely to do, and how you can help yourself.

This can be likewise for newer exhibitors, who maybe just haven’t thought that what they are doing is unsporting and can be considered nobbling another exhibit!

Likely unsporting tactics can include throwing bait, excessive use of a squeaky toy, getting too close to your dog on the stand, or on the move, or trying to distract the handler.

Throwing/ dropping of bait
Some exhibitors like to throw bait to get an alert look from their dog, their dogs are trained to just watch the food that is thrown, but your dog may want to chase it to eat! Likewise some exhibitors may just drop bait on the floor.

To overcome this, teach your dog to leave food on command. This is a good training tip for all dogs, not just show dogs. Put food on the floor when training and ask your dog to leave. Any half decent companion dog training class will teach this activity and some Ringcraft classes may also help you with this if you ask.

Training your dog to “head up” will also help if the smell is left on the ground. (Yes, this is all about training your dog for all possible scenarios.)

Squeaky toy
Squeaky toys can be difficult to deal with if you have a toy obsessed dog, but again, training your dog for the possibility of coming across this can help. Teach your dog the command “watch me” to encourage them to always focus on you. Once you have a strong “watch me” you can get people around you to squeak toys, encourage your dog to ignore the sound and watch you. You will have to reward with something of even higher value though!

Also, always take in a multitude of items for your dog. I often have different treats, rabbit skin and a squeaky toy and although will rarely use, I can if someone is distracting my dog!

Boxed into a corner
Some exhibitors, deliberately, or not, may box you into a corner if you allow them. Do not stand your dog in a corner, either set up across the corner, or if you feel boxed in, take your dog to the end of the line and set up there. Do this quietly and calmly, don’t upset your dog by getting agitated.

Pushing their dog forward in the line / covering your dog from the judges view
When you are standing in the line, make sure when you enter into the ring, you leave enough room from the dog in front of you. If someone comes in behind you that crowds your dog from behind, you have a little room in front to move forward, so still giving you a decent space for your dog.

If an exhibitors steps out of line and moves forward, covering your dog, just move your dog to the back of the line, or ask the steward to space everyone out a bit more.

Running up your dog’s rear end
Sometimes you get a handler who runs their dog up your dog’s rear end. I would get your dog used to other dogs running close to them, so it doesn’t upset them if it happens, but feel free to suddenly stop and ask the exhibitor if they would like to go in front. Hopefully though, most judges will spot this happening and sort it out for you.

Hope this covers most of the situations you may unfortunately come up against. If you hve experienced any of the above, discuss it here.

Categories
Handling training

Showing Teeth – Video

Showing Teeth – Video

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIMaXzypzME]

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Showing a dogs teeth

 

Categories
Handling training Show dog training

The up and down together

The up and down together
The up and down together is used in the breed ring when a judge would like to compare two dog’s rear and front movement together.  In handling it shows control of the handlers and can compare two handler’s straight lines and presentation.  Sometimes a judge will want the up and down once or twice, some will stay put and some will move to one side (this is where it gets complicated).

The idea is that the two dogs are kept together at all times and to achieve this one handler will start their dog on the right side and the other handler will start their dog on the left side and at the top, if the judge hasn’t moved, both handlers should do an inward turn so the dogs are still moving together.

If the judge moves to one side, the handler furthest away from the judge goes back first and the other handler follows behind.  Then, stopping one behind the other they both would turn and follow each other the other way back to present in front of the judge.

Move the dogs at the correct speed.  If one is slower than the other then wait for them at the turn.

Before you set off on the up and down ask the handler you are running with if they are ready.  You don’t want to go trotting off to find the other handler hasn’t yet got their lead sorted.

Once the movement is finished dogs should be stood parallel to the judge with the gap directly opposite the judge’s feet.  Both dogs should be back to back or facing the same direction.  Never have the dogs facing each other (eyeballing) as if they are two male dogs then this could cause trouble.

Sometimes you may find that you come up against a handler who doesn’t know this exercise very well and they get confused.  If they do get confused then politely tell/guide them where to go on the turns.  This shows the judge that you understand what is meant to happen and is better than having someone else ruin your chances of winning.

This can also be a great training tool to use in training to get control from your dog and get them to ignore other dogs. Even if you never need to do this exercise in the ring, training it will help teach your dog to ignore other dogs running close by in another ring.

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Uncategorized

Top Tip #39

Top Tip #39
Make sure you always read the show schedule if you are entering a new class. It’s important that you keep track of your dogs wins at open and champ shows to ensure you don’t enter a class your dog is over qualified for and therefore risk having your reward taken away from you and getting a fine.

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Uncategorized

The coat must be allowed to develop naturally

The coat must be allowed to develop naturally
There is an ongoing debate about the rights and wrongs of “trimming” and other measures designed to enhance the show dogs coat. The following article written by Jim Hickie addresses this issue with Afgan Hounds.

Once upon a time a young man called Fred found himself at a dog show and he admired the various breeds and the competition and by the end of the day had decided that he just must have a pedigreed dog to show. Now being young Fred had other things on his mind and realised that he did not have the time or the talent to prepare and present his first choice – a Poodle.

So Fred went off to the Terrier ring and he liked the smart and firey look of the Smooth Fox Terriers so he approached an old terrier man and said that he was impressed by the breed because it was smart and sharp and obviously did not require a lot of coat maintenance and preparation.

“Not so” said the old terrier man “All show dogs require lots of preparation and in this breed we sometimes have coats that carry too much undercoat, too much ruff around the neck, too much hair on the tail. etc , and to get these dogs ready for the showring requires weeks of work to get him looking smooth and natural and to keep them looking that way. We also have to trim the feet so that they look small and catlike. Sometimes you also have to tape the ears over so that the flaps fold over neatly (but super glue is sometimes used) and some dogs have their tails straightened surgically.”.

Reluctantly Fred decided that there might be just too much work in a Smooth Fox Terrier to fit in with his lifestyle and the thought of having a tail tampered with did not appeal to him at all, but he continued his search and looked at the English Cocker Spaniel – lovely little dog, smart, wonderful temperament and affectionate too.

“But” said the breeder, “this breed requires more preparation than any other and it is nearly all done by hand plucking except for around the feet which are cut to make them appear catlike. – and the end result must look entirely natural.”

“Not for me ” thought Fred but continued his search and said to an Afghan Hound exhibitor as he was passing “All that coat must require a lot of work:”

“Not at all ” said the owner, “An Afghan’s coat must be allowed to DEVELOP NATURALLY and what you see before you is a perfect example of that – a long flowing coat that has DEVELOPED NATURALLY”

“And very glamorous too” said Fred.

“All that glamour and very little work!” thought Fred

“Where would I be able to buy such a dog?”

“Well you are very fortunate – I just happen to have an eight week old puppy. He is a black masked gold – a very popular colour with the judges – and you can have him for a thousand dollars”

Now this was about twice as much as Fred had contemplated spending but how else could one acquire such glamour with so little maintenance – no trimming, little grooming – just let it DEVELOP NATURALLY – this was indeed a bargin.

Six months later Fred takes his blacked-masked gold Afghan to its first dog show and is placed sixth out of six.

Naturally Fred is a little disappointed at this result even though all the other exhibits in the class looked more glamorous than his. Ask the judge ? Well why not ?

“I would have to say young man that your exhibit was very untidy and ungroomed.

Indeed I felt that it was dirty. And the matts in the coat are just not acceptable in the showring.”

THE COAT MUST BE ALLOWED TO DEVELOP NATURALLY ?

Over the next few weeks Fred brushed the coat daily and got all the matts out and went along to his next show and came in fifth against the same opposition – a result still not up to his expectations, so he spoke to some of the other exhibitors and learned about shampoos and conditioners and how to get him looking right with a blow dryer etc.

THE COAT MUST BE ALLOWED TO DEVELOP NATURALLY

At his third show Fred’s dog is a truly glamorous puppy with shiny coat nicely parted down the middle, fuzzy monkey whiskers and lots of hair around the throat and on the tail and he came in first and Best Puppy in Breed. With a few more wins Fred was beginning to think that this was good fun even if.

“LETTING THE COAT DEVELOP NATURALLY” meant that you had to spend all that time grooming, bathing, blow-drying etc. not to mention the expense of shampoos and conditioners and of course the blow dryer – all required to LET THE COAT DEVELOP NATURALLY.

Now if Fred had lived in England this fairy tale would have ended right here in the usual way that fairy tales end.Fred however lives in a country beginning with A and a couple of months later Fred’s dog is back to the wrong end of the placings.

By this time Fred has been in the show game for six months so he knows where to go to get his questions answered.

“Well” said the experienced handler, ” you cannot show a dog in Junior Class with all that coat and expect to win. You have to get rid of all those puppy whiskers, take out all that dead hair from the saddle and strip all the excess from the tail.”

“And how do I do all that ?” queries Fred.

“You have to pluck it out , clip it off, or thin it with thinning scissors, or in places where it is not too bad you can shave it down with a pumice stone or use a terrier blade.”

“But I thought THE COAT MUST BE ALLOWED TO DEVELOP NATURALLY?”

“Of course that is true”, replied the handler “But you must realise that there are certain breed standard requirements if the dog is to look like an Afghan – so you must let it DEVELOP NATURALLY and then make it look like an Afghan”.

“I thought that ALLOWED TO DEVELOP NATURALLY meant what it said”

“Of course it does”. replies handler.

Now, Fred may be a little slow but he is not stupid – he does not even have a computer yet. – and he finds that he has a talent for all this stripping, cutting, grooming etc. and he goes out and wins the points on a few occasions.

Fred also finds that he can grow longer ear fringes if he wraps the ears (let the coat DEVELOP NATURALLY inside the wraps) and at other times a snood is used to protect the top knot and ear fringes and the body coat is kept in oil to further protect it.

And then of course Fred’s dog never runs free any more – it may damage the coat, which MUST BE ALLOWED TO DEVELOP NATURALLY.

By now of course Fred is an expert and when he is asked if his dog’s coat is entirely natural always replies.

“Of course it is, but you must remember that once you take a dog out of its natural environment, plan its matings, select for the next generation, keep alive the weak that nature would have eliminated, maintain them with veterinary care and allow them to become lounge lizards they are no longer like they were fifty or eighty years ago.

We have taken over from nature and DEVELOP NATURALLY means develop in the natural environment that we created for them. and after all I am showing show dogs and it is a level playing field in there because I learned all of the techniques of presentation from my competitors”
(Didn’t I say Fred was smart?”)

Copyright Jim Hickie – Gengala Afghan Hounds – Australia